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Sip through Seattle: A look at the city's best coffeehouses
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By Carla Jean Whitley
Seattle offers an urban playground and all the outdoor activities you have energy for—certainly more than you can fit in a long weekend. So where do you begin?
STAY
On a recent four day visit, I narrowed the scope of my visit by focusing on food and culture within walking distance of my hotel. Located just blocks from the famed Pike Place Market and in downtown Seattle, the Mayflower Park Hotel (mayflower park.com) has offered comfortably elegant lodging since 1927. A corner suite included two queen beds, two full bathrooms and a view of the Space Needle a mile away. Using the Mayflower Park as home base made art, culture, food and coffee easily accessible.
PLAY
We packed our most touristy activities into our first full day. Begin with breakfast at one of Pike Place Market’s many vendors. We picked up pastries and coffee at Le Panier, then carried them across the street to Victor Steinbrueck Park, overlooking Elliott Bay. Sated, we walked a mile to the Space Needle (spaceneedle.com). The view from the 1962 World’s Fair attraction is stunning, providing an overview of the wide-flung beauty of this Emerald City.
It would be a mistake to visit this music mecca and miss the Experience Music Project (empsfm. org). The contemporary music museum offers an overview of the Pacific Northwest’s sound throughout history. The permanent exhibit also includes Sound and Vision: Artists Tell Their Stories and Sound Lab, an interactive music area where you’ll learn basics of how to play. (On what other vacation can you learn to play the bass line of “Wild Thing”?) Though it gained fame during the ‘90s grunge movement, Seattle remains a hotbed for distinctive sounds. The lineup at Crocodile Cafe (thecrocodile.com) always includes some of the best names in modern music.
Seattle Art Museum is also in the heart of downtown. One exhibit you won’t see outside of this recently expanded museum is Titus Kaphar: History in the Making (through Sept. 6). Kaphar’s exhibit looks at historic moments and the paintings that depict them, then re-imagines the treatment of black subjects within.
EAT
From coffee shops (see sidebar) to elegant dinners, it’s almost harder to find bad food in Seattle than it is a good meal out.
La Creperie Voila (lecreperievoila. com) is merely a street-front kiosk, but the stuffed crepes are a tasty and filling breakfast on the go. We enjoyed lunch at Pike Place Chowder (pikeplacechowder.com) where the lime and dill in the Seared Scallop Chowder distinguished it from any other soup I’ve tried. Dinner at the upscale Steelhead Diner (steel headdiner.com) offers echoes of the South; Chef Kevin Davis hails from Louisiana and many dishes combine the Northwest’s seafood with Cajun flavor.
Though it’s known for coffee, Seattle is also a great place for another kind of brew. We sampled the beers at Elysian Fields (elysianbrew ing.com), where we received a list with 40-plus of their beers. What’s on tap may vary, but try the Hubris Imperial IPA if you can. Further down the street is Pyramid Brewery (pyra midbrew.com), which offers a sampler of its own beers. The Pike Brewing Company (pikebrewing.com) is a busy brewpub near the market, with plenty of character despite its proximity to one of the city’s big tourism draws.
Restaurant Zoe (restaurantzoe.com) is an evening in itself. This luxurious restaurant combines the casual Northwest attitude with fine dining. The foie gras made a rich starter, and the loin of lamb was one of the tenderest I’ve had. We finished with lemon-ginger ice cream—a perfect way to savor this casual city and its not-so-casual attitude toward all things entertainment.
Sip through Seattle
Start at Starbucks. So long as you’re in Seattle, you ought to check out the original. Coffee connoisseurs aren’t fans of the super-dark roasted beans, but Starbucks played a significant role in spreading coffee culture throughout America. We stopped by another location (a mere block away), then carried our still-steaming cups over to the original. And it wasn’t a bad idea: There always seems to be a long line at the original Pike Place Market location. Pike Place Market, 1912 Pike Place; 206-448-8762; starbucks.com
Espresso Vivace
It’s all about espresso. Literally. This trendy espresso bar is a monument to the intense beverage. You won’t get drip coffee here, but you will learn a little something as you read the espresso mural along the bar. (That’s literally an espresso mural—it was painted with the stuff!) Even the floor serves as a monument to espresso: Latte art mosaics compete with what’s in your cup as the shop’s greatest beauty. Espresso Vivace Alley 24 (and other locations), 227 Yale Ave N.; 206-388-5164; Open daily 6 a.m.-11 p.m.; espresso vivace.com
Stumptown
This branch of the Portland-based Stumptown is modern, with Scandinavian-inspired furnishings. But at the same time it’s warm and inviting, with dark woods and colorful photos from coffee-producing countries. The shop was the furthest from our hotel and a totally different clientèle than in the heart of downtown, but my traveling buddy quickly deemed it his favorite. Stumptown Coffee, 616 Pine St. E. (and other locations); 206-329-0115; Open daily 7 a.m.-9 p.m.; stumptowncoffee.com
Trabant Coffee and Chai
Trabant’s minimalist interior combines modern elements with warmth echoed in the beverages you’ll drink. Burlap coffee sacks hang on one side of the shop, with paintings by a local artist decorating the other end. But what this simplicity really accomplishes is directing your attention to the coffee. Pioneer Square, 602 Second Ave.; Mon.-Fri. 6:30 a.m.-6 p.m., Sat.-Sun. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. trabantcoffee.com
Victrola Coffee Roasters
It’s obvious that the folks at Victrola take their coffee seriously. Porcelain to go mugs are on display before you even reach the counter, and a beautifully-designed brochure explains the current month’s available beans. A flier in a window depicts a barista tamping down a shot of espresso. “Can Starbucks win back Seattle?” it asks. “I don’t think so.” And neither do we. Victrola Café and Roastery (and other locations), 310 Pike St. E.; 206-624-1725; Mon.-Fri. 6:30 a.m.-8 p.m., Sat.-Sun. 7:30 a.m.-8 p.m.; victrolacoffee.com
