GOOD TASTE
Vivacious Vibe
 
Table is fresh and vibrant in
ambience and cuisine.
 By Jan Walsh/Photography by Beau Gustafson

Reserve a table, or just drop by Table for dinner or Sunday brunch. The restaurant opened late in 2007 and is located in the former Mauby’s building, on Oak Street in Mountain Brook’s Crestline Village. But don’t expect a made-over Mauby’s. Owner Brian Lewis totally remodeled the interior, creating a chic, stylish eatery that befits Chef Michael Brandon’s scrumptious, contemporary American fare.

The vibe is energetic and happening, busting and busy. A metal sign reading “Table” rests on the entry wall of blue, leading to the dining room. Here the backs of dark, wooden banquettes rise to meet the cinnamon-colored walls above. The banquettes cushions are upholstered in warm brown tones. Centered on the back wall toward the kitchen is a full bar dotted with pin lights, which seats 12. Industrial black bracings line the wooden planked ceiling, which is masterfully lit with a variety of pin, track and modern lighting devices, providing soft and subtle lighting that adds a subliminal layer of sophistication. Background music of instrumental tunes fills the air. And tables dot the room, surrounding one large harvest style table, which sits center stage, with a cluster of modern lighting hanging above.

Lewis and Brandon show their respect for the environment and the food by utilizing every part of the food products. Brandon also has a small chef’s garden and compost onsite and has plans for a larger one off site. “All meats are naturally raised by small farmers. Our fish is wild sushi grade, which we try to translate into a reasonable price. All the steaks are butchered here. And all the sauces are made in house,” Lewis describes.

Brandon is a saltwater chef, rather than fresh water chef. “I grew up in Pensacola Beach, Fla., watching the beautiful lobster, red snapper and grouper come right off the boat. So I was butchering 15-pound grouper by the time I was 8 years old and still prefer saltwater fish,” he says. Brandon’s father was an airline pilot, so he traveled widely while growing up, allowing him to experience many different cuisines. He also traveled to Missouri often, where he visited family for extended stays on their family farm. “There I watched as food grew from seedlings and from baby piglets.” Yet Brandon had no plans to become a chef until after he graduated from Samford University with a degree in psychology. “It took a little time to find my path. But once I realized that I wanted to become a chef, I worked at one of best restaurants in the city, Hot and Hot Fish Club, while in culinary school.” After graduating from Culinard, he also worked locally at Fire, Ocean and Mountain Brook Club. “At Mountain Brook Club, Master Chef candidate Steve Adams taught me about both mass production and fine dining. We would have both 200 for dinner and a chef’s table at the same time.”

With no mass production dinner menu at Table, the size of the menu is manageable for guests and chef. Guests are not limited in options-nor are they overwhelmed with them. And Brandon does all of it well. The dinner menu is divided among selections of small plates, sushi, salads/soups and main plates. There is also a menu of martinis, cocktails, cordials, single malt scotches, premium blends and specialty coffees. And the wine list boasts both familiar favorites and some less known, small handcrafted wines. Our server, Geoff Walls, offers recommendations from the menu, aptly suggests wine pairings, and throughout the evening provides attentive—yet not intrusive—service. Delaporte Sancerre 2006 is selected for course one, Raptor Ridge Pinot Gris 2006 for course two, and 75 Amber Knolls Vineyard 2005 for the main course.

Table’s fare is a synthesis of California, Mediterranean and Asian—particularly Japanese—cuisines. A divine starter of an olive tapenade with crisp crostinis whets the appetite for more. And the chef himself serves a special appetizer. “I created it on a whim and at the last minute. Enjoy,” Brandon says. This small dish of Braised Short Ribs Spring Roll with roasted red pepper is served with avocado aioli and citrus aioli. The spring roll is crisp and crunchy, and perfectly balanced as it is hearty but light and refreshing. I could make a meal of these. The Pan Seared Pot Stickers are also outstanding. These soft crusted stickers are made of ground New York Sirloin and rest on a bed of frisee with red and green peppers, which add a bit of heat. They are served with ginger cilantro and citrus dipping sauces. Also among the small plate offerings that tempt are Lamb Sausage, Oysters on the Half Shell and a Lemon Herbed Crab Cake.

From the list of soups and salads, the Shrimp Bisque is ordered. This hearty portion is served in a big bowl with a large soupspoon. Made from a cream, sherry and broth base, the bisque is mustard orange in color, offers layers of complex, deep, rich textures and flavors, and is chock full of shrimp. It is—without a doubt—the best shrimp bisque I have ever tasted! I would come here just for this dish. It is a mainstay of both the dinner and brunch menu, so don’t miss it.

Main plates include Table’s catch of the day, which tonight is swordfish, grilled or sautéed, served with crushed Yukons and baby French beans with lemon beurre blanc. Other main plates that tempt but are not tasted include Crisp Muscovy Duck, Braised Colorado Lamb Shank, Black Angus Flat Iron Steak, Tempura Fried Ahi Tuna and Atlantic Salmon. Each has its own set of sides but can be switched upon request. Although we had not planned to order a steak, Lewis’ description of the Hereford Rib eye made it difficult to resist. “The rib eye is butchered to remove all of the fat, so it looks like a filet,” he describes. The steak is lean, cooked to order and served with Bleu Cheese Dauphinoise potatoes that are crusty on top and creamy inside. Dauphinoise is a method of baking sliced potatoes in layers with cream and cheese, similar to scalloped potatoes. Also ordered is the Pan Seared George’s Bank Scallops. The delicious and delicate, sweet scallops are served atop a butternut squash risotto, cooked al dente, with haricot verts, candied pecans and a honey-soy glaze.

Dessert offerings include a Triple Chocolate Cake with Strawberry Sauce, Ginger Cream Brulee, Warm Cinnamon Apple Cake and a Chocolate Mousse with a bourbon caramel sauce. The mousse, which is enhanced by the sauce’s richness and depth of flavor, is shared, adding a tasty end to the evening.

Table exceeds expectations. Each dish is as fresh and vibrant as the restaurant.
January Birmingham, Alabama

  

 
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