GOOD TASTE

 

 

the details:
Grey House Grille
1830 29th Ave. S.
Suite S-160, Soho Square
Homewood
Phone: 414-1755
greyhousegrille.com
Hours:
Monday-Thursday 11 a.m. until 10 p.m.
Friday 11 a.m. until 11 p.m.
Saturday 10a.m. until 11 p.m.
Sunday 10 a.m. until 8 p.m.

 


By Jan Walsh Photography by Beau Gustafson
Grey House Grille’s appeal grows wider with the addition of a chef-driven dinner menu. These creations are determined by the seasonal produce and proteins that Executive Chef Shelby Adams finds the freshest. The menu typically offers two appetizers, a soup or salad and three entrées. Their regular dinner menu is also available. This popular lunch, weekend brunch and dinner eatery is located in Soho Square, and is family owned and family operated. Ed Wise and his family run the restaurant and added the new menu to showcase Adams’ culinary talents. “We first replaced the dinner menu with a nightly chef selections menu. But by popular demand, we brought back the original menu in addition to the chef’s menu,” Wise says. “We have regulars who still wanted a favorite sandwich or who wanted their shrimp and grits from the old menu. Diners at the same table order from different menus.” Wise pleased all by keeping both menus.

But before ordering from either menu, the wine list and happy hour menu take priority. A nice selection of wines is available by the glass ($6 to $11) and by the bottle ($18 to $195). The happy hour menu (available from 4 to 8 p.m., Monday through Saturday) offers $4 house martinis, well drinks, Castle Rock wine and $5 appetizer specials. Although I typically pass a cocktail menu over for a wine list, tonight I spot a White Grape Martini on the list. Intrigued, I order it and discover this is a martini for wine lovers! This sleek, black-rimmed glass is as seductive and sleek as is the chilly cocktail. And unlike many martinis, it pairs well with food.

From tonight’s chef’s selections, two appetizers, a soup du jour and three entrées are ordered. But I also could not resist a couple of appetizers from the regular menu— Crabmeat Napoleon and Home Style Blue Cheese Potato Chips. The restaurant’s most popular appetizer is the tasty Napoleon, which is a three stack of crisp fried green tomatoes, layered with and topped with crabmeat and remoulade. And for the blue cheese lover, this sizable mound of Yukon Gold potatoes fried to a golden brown and drizzled with a warm Maytag blue cheese is a must.

Appetizers from the chef’s menu include Pink Eye Risotto and Grilled Leg of Lamb. The description of “pink eyed” catches my eye and brings back memories of Blount County’s pink eyed, purple-hulled peas. As a small child, I “helped” my Granny shell fresh pink eyes and was left with purple palms to show for it. Yet this is not child’s play for Adams, and he has more than a county kitchen’s talent for combining ingredients to bring forth a medley of flavors, which he achieves with the pink-eyed risotto. Asking his secret, he says, “The peas are cooked off with onions, carrots, celery and bay leaf. And to reinforce the flavor of the peas, we cook the rice in the pea liquor with bacon, onion, garlic, red wine, white wine and fresh thyme.” The risotto is fabulous and makes an earthy and hearty accompaniment to the tender and juicy lamb, which is presented with a beautiful yellow squash from Michael Dean. Other flavors melding on the plate are a curried eggplant puree, Dean’s red cherry tomatoes halved, and a cucumber mint raita—made of fresh Alabama cucumbers and lending a mid-eastern touch. A fan of Dean’s vegetables, Adams also uses arugula and pea tendrils in his new menu. “The chef’s menu gives me the opportunity to really delve into and explore great regional produce,” Adams describes. “I am free to be more creative and inventive.” And in contrast to the lamb comes a light appetizer of a Chilled Watermelon Soup served in a demi cup. The salmon-colored soup is creamy and refreshing, with crunchy bites of pickled watermelon rind adding texture.

Entrées on the chef’s menu include Pan Seared Cobia, Grilled Top Sirloin and Grilled Duroc Pork Chop. The thick, white and dense cobia is seared to perfection. The starch of the polenta and lima beans contrasts well with the acidity of a colorful array of red and green chopped vegetables. Red grilled onions, cucumbers, tomato confit and a sherry vinaigrette’s acidity also complements the fish. The tender and thick pork chop is served with chopped, flavorful braised red cabbage that was cooked with bacon and onion, a crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside potato pancake, and garnished with a peach and plum salsa made of Alabama fruit. The salsa’s softness and sweetness synthesize with the crisp acidity of the cabbage, lending a balancing act to this lovely dish. And the juicy sirloin arrives sizzling and cooked to order, pink but not red inside, atop creamy mashed potatoes and a delightful cabernet butter.

Bread pudding is the signature dessert at Grey House Grille. This house-made pudding begins with French baguettes, minus the crust. Topped with Grand Marnier and caramel sauce, this popular treat is sweet, creamy and offers warm and rich flavors of vanilla bean, brown sugar, cinnamon and white chocolate and is topped off with vanilla ice cream. “People routinely order entire pans to serve to dinner guests at home. And Gov. Bob Riley said it was the best he had ever had,” Wise says proudly.

In addition to VIP guests such as Riley, Grey House Grille’s back room has also become popular for bridal luncheons and other special events. And the entire restaurant is also available for rental for wedding receptions, private parties and corporate events. Adams customizes a chef’s menus—both small and large—for these private events.
January Birmingham, Alabama

  

 
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