GOOD TASTE

 


 

By Jan Walsh
Daniel george is Mountain Brook Village’s neighborhood, fine dining restaurant. The menu changes daily, featuring a variety of Gulf seafood, wild and domestic game, meats, poultry and fresh produce prepared by two chefs—Daniel Briggs and George McMillan III. The restaurant is situated in a quaint storefront on Culver Road. Entering through the bar, a small gathering of Alabama football fans are enjoying an evening at the bar watching the LSU game. A bubbling water fountain and massive columns lead diners into the main dining room. A smaller dining space behind this room is set for a birthday party tonight, balloons and all. Large floral artwork decorates the walls, and white tablecloth tables dot the center of the main dining space.

The depth of the wine list is impressive. It offers a diverse selection, which represents international and American regions well, in a variety of bottle sizes— from half bottles to magnums. It begins with a lovely selection of bubbly. Here two Schramsbergs—one by both the glass and the bottle—are found as well as two Champagnes in 375 ml bottles. From the Alternate Whites we select a bottle of white Bordeaux, Chateau Ducasse 2007. Others from this list include whites from the other regions of France, Italy, Chile and Austria. There is also a list of Alternative Reds and categories by varietal.

For those who want more than a bottle, the list of magnums includes a Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 and a food-friendly wine from France’s Rhone Valley-Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape “La Crau” 2006.

Dinner begins with a lovely basket of bread with both white and dark options. The menu is divided between appetizers and entrées. “The food at Daniel George has an amalgam of our personalities. You can see the vestiges of our individual styles in each dish, yet there is continuity,” Briggs says. “Over time you are able to anticipate your partner’s goal with a certain dish, and it’s fun to see the way our food satisfies both our visions.”

Among the tempting starters are tonight’s special of Apalachicola Oysters, and menu items of Portobello Soup, Owl Hollow Baby Lettuces, Seared Hudson Foie Gras and Grilled Carolina Quail. Instead we opt for Gulf Crab Claws—half sautéed and half fried—and the Bowl of Steamed Mussels. The hearty portion of claws is large enough for two. The breading on the fried claws is light. The sautéed claws are firm in texture and only enhanced by their sauté, rather than being overpowered by it. A homemade cocktail sauce made with fresh horseradish accompanies the crabs. Aromas of the Prince Edward Island Mussels rise from the bowl,whetting the appetite, which is soon satisfied by flavors of the steamed mussels served in a Chardonnay basil broth with bits of tomato.

Entrée options of Day Boat Scallops, Filet of Beef, Braised Duck Papparadelle and Tanglewood Farms Chicken Breast and Scottish Salmon are passed for the Grilled Leg of Venison and Sautéed Mingo Snapper.

The tender, red venison is served rare, atop a mascarpone polenta with flavorful wilted spinach and a blueberry reduction sauce. The scrumptious filet of snapper is white, flaky and cooked properly and accompanied by golden quinoa, a medley of roasted vegetables and a romesco, red pepper sauce.

“Daniel and I have individual styles that combine to create a signature flavor that is uniquely Daniel George , ” describes McMillan.

As the evening progresses more diners who, like myself, would rather dine out in Birmingham than tailgate, gather at tables nearby. Cheers from the football fans at the bar lure several diners to leave their tables for the last minutes of the game. After the game ends, the restaurant fills with many celebrating Alabama’s victory over dinner.

The dessert menu includes an offering of sweet treats and dessert wines, including an Oremus Late Harvest Tokaji 2003 and a Fonseca, a 20-year-old Port. We select Carrot Cake and Fried Apple Pies. The cake is a miniature biscuit-sized cake for one, covered in traditional cream cheese frosting and carrot snips. The weight of the baby cake is balanced by its moistness. Two crisp, hot fried apple pies are served with caramel sauce and vanilla bean ice cream: Sweet.

After eight years in the same location on Culver Road in Mountain Brook Village two chefs continue to be better than one. Briggs and McMillian feed off each other to create a diverse menu of offerings that appeals to all.

January Birmingham, Alabama

  

 
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