Dreaming Big
Chris Dupont stays true to his vision in downtown Birmingham.
By Jan Walsh Photos by Jason Wallis
THE DETAILS
Cafe Dupont
113 20th St. N.
(205) 322-1282
cafedupont.net
Lunch: Tues.-Fri., 11 a.m.-2 p.m.
Dinner: Tues.-Thurs., 5-10 p.m.;
Fri., 5-10:30 p.m.; Sat., 5:30-10:30 p.m.
In times like these it is important to realize that the American dream is alive and well in downtown Birmingham. Dreaming is easy.
Bringing dreams to fruition is difficult. And once all the work to make a dream comes true is done, it is easy to take what has been built for granted and move onto another dream. But when perfection is one’s dream, the work is never done. And Chris Dupont accepts nothing less than perfection. In December 2003, Chris Dupont opened Café Dupont on 20th Street in a storefront building that dates to the 1870s. The space has been home to a jewelry store, a tailor and two restaurants prior to Café Dupont. After five successful years in this space, Dupont expanded next door, adding an old world bar in 1,500 square feet of space. The bar area exposes the 131-year-old building’s original ceiling and floors. Its dark woods and rich colors are a contrast to the vanilla tones of the dining room.
Tonight we are seated at a candlelit window table. Dinner begins with a look at the wine list paired with a taste of warm bread and butter. The evening’s unseasonably warm fall temperature calls for a crisp white wine,Vincent Delaporte Sancerre 2007 from France’s Loire Valley.
The menu is divided into lighter fare and entrée size portions. In addition to ordering from the menu, five courses, seven courses and entire menu tastings are options.Among the menu items are a few of my all time favorites, including Chris’ fried oysters and okra, seared large sea scallops and black grouper.
But on this visit I only order menu items that I have never experienced. I am curious to see and taste Chris’ version of Fried Green Tomatoes. The Drunken Goat Cheese Soufflé is a must. And who can resist the Roasted Pork Roulade?
The stack of fried green tomato slices arrives with several gorgeous shrimp atop. The tomatoes have a thin, crisp crust that adheres perfectly to each bite of the tomatoes as they are sliced. The shrimp are superb, and their protein adds a hearty layer of taste and texture to each bite. Both are further complemented by an heirloom tomato relish and homemade remoulade. The Dreaming Big Chris Dupont stays true to his vision in downtown Birmingham. By Jan Walsh Photos by Jason Wallis Sweet Potato Fries Stuffed Georgia Quail with Andouille Sausage Bread Pudding Drunken Goat Cheese Soufflé arrives piping hot in a bed of organic greens with toasted almonds, topped with an artful presentation of crunchy fried leeks. The Roasted Pork Roulade is served sliced with a swirl of stuffing center stage. Andouille sausage, cornbread, onions, roasted beets and organic pea tendrils round out this earthy dish.
We select entrees of the Braised Beef Short Rib and Marinated Flank Steak and the Stuffed Georgia Quail with Andouille Sausage. The rib and steak arrive smothered under an orange bed of freshly fried, sweet potato tubers. The braised beef short rib is falling-off-the-bone tender with deep layers of rich, meaty flavors. White beans add another hearty starch and the braising jus adds additional moisture and richness. The other half of the dish is a marinated flank steak, making this dish a meat lover’s dream.
The plump quail arrives in a bowl of homemade gumbo. This stuffed quail with Andouille Sausage, shrimp and sweet cornbread crumbles into the gumbo below, making it only natural for each bite to include both the gumbo and the bird. For those who want a hearty dish that is stuffed—but won’t make you feel stuffed—this is it.
The dessert menu offers one temptation after another.We opt for Bread Pudding and a Godiva Chocolate Martini. The rich bread pudding sits in a rum sauce and is topped with cinnamon Chantilly cream. The martini is deep, dark and chocolaty.
A wise man once told me, “Perfection is knowing when to stop.”That man was Chris Dupont. And each dish, superb service and pristine detail of the restaurant’s ambience reflects this philosophy. Perfection is another evening at Café Dupont. And this is a dream come true for Chris Dupont.
